Collection: Art Deco Jewelry

Art Deco jewelry, which emerged in the 1920s and 1930s, is a distinctive style characterized by geometrically sophisticated designs and the use of luxurious material, typically platinum, set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires contrasting with more uncommon semi-precious materials such as carnelian and black onyx. Incorporating striking contrasts of color, pattern and motifs inspired by ancient civilizations such as Egypt, the art deco period reflected the spirit of the Jazz Age, embodying glamour, innovation, and the optimism of a rapidly modernizing world. Jewelers embraced new cutting techniques and materials, creating fanciful pieces with sharp angles, stepped forms, and dramatic contrasts between light and dark gemstones.

Art deco pieces are highly sought after by collectors for their distinctive, recognizable style and exceptional craftsmanship. Notable deco designs include Cartier’s iconic Tutti Frutti bracelet, first created in the 1920s, intertwining multi-colored cabochon and cut gemstones with diamond vines and black onyx accents. Van Cleef & Arpels introduced their Mystery Set technique in the 1930s, threading rubies and sapphires along hidden platinum tracks creating the illusion of gems floating without visible means of support. Many important art deco pieces owned by wealthy and discerning collectors such as Marjorie Merriweather Post, Gloria Swanson and others are now in museum collections such as the Smithsonian and Victoria and Albert and those in circulation consistently command the very highest prices at auction and resale.

Authenticating jewelry requires nuanced expertise. Many thousands of pieces of jewelry from every era and every maker have passed through our hands for over 40 years. This familiarity enables us to know what a piece should look and feel like, if it has the expected quality of material and workmanship, if the metal and makers marks are correct and if the expected signature is authentic.

As a first step, we look at the front and back of every bracelet, ring or brooch, turning it over in our hands to see that the workmanship on the reverse is as fine as the detail on the front. Using a loupe, the jeweler’s essential tool, we look carefully at many different touch points, some of which include examining the precision with which diamonds are mounted in their settings, the manner in which gold or platinum links are connected to each other, the fineness of the material, the quality of the azuring - a difficult and refined aspect of metalwork and lastly, the flawlessness of the polish.

If we have any doubts whatsoever as to authenticity, we submit the piece to the relevant firm, be it Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Verdura, David Webb and others. We also request the original bill of sale, box and papers for those items most commonly faked such as Cartier Love brackets and VCA Alhambra pieces. And just as banks know their customers, we, too, ensure we know enough about our clients to assure ourselves of their ownership and provenance.

Our team of GIA-certified jewelry experts has such a well-regarded reputation in the international jewelry industry that we are frequently called upon to advise auction houses, appraisers and other dealers in matters of authenticity and value.