Our expert guide to bracelets designed during the Art Deco movement.
What Is an Art Deco bracelet?
An Art Deco bracelet is a vintage or antique piece of jewelry created approximately between 1920 and 1939. They are usually geometric in shape, with clean lines and often angular repeating motifs. A popular type of Art Deco bracelet features a series of three plaques, the center of each set with an eye-catching gemstone separated by diamond-set openwork links. Diamond line bracelets were also popular designs during this era.
Art Deco bracelets were most commonly made from platinum and frequently featured diamonds and brightly colored precious gemstones such as sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. Deco bracelets were a defining accessory of the Jazz Age's opulent look, but their timeless glamour has made them an enduring style that is still sought after today.
A Magnificent Cartier Art Deco ‘Tutti Frutti’ Bracelet, c. 1930
The History of Art Deco Bracelets
Art Deco jewelry emerged in a period known as the Roaring Twenties, and was one of many post-World War I trends rooted in hope. After the war, there was a renewed sense of optimism for the future, and innovations in technology and architecture inspired the jewelry of the time. These opulent, geometric styles were seen as a celebration of life and an embrace of the modernism movement people were beginning to experience.
After WWI, women gained much more freedom, and with this liberation came the rejection of modest Edwardian dress. Corsets and ruffled blouses were replaced with sequined flapper dresses and low-waisted sleeveless sheaths that revealed women's bare arms and created a desire for glittering diamond bracelets that symbolized the modern, free-spirited woman.
The 1920s and '30s are often referred to as the Jazz Age, a period of cultural rebellion influenced by African American culture, nightclubs, big bands, Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington and lively jazz music. The jewelry worn at the time included Art Deco bracelets frequently worn in stacks and long ropes of pearls.
What Are The Characteristics of an Art Deco Bracelet?
Art Deco bracelets are characterized by geometrically sophisticated designs and the use of luxurious material, typically platinum set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires contrasted with more uncommon semi-precious materials such as carnelian and black onyx.
Art Deco Emerald, Diamond and Onyx Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1920
Incorporating striking contrasts of color, pattern and motifs inspired by ancient civilizations such as India and Egypt, the art deco period reflected the spirit of the Jazz Age, embodying glamour, innovation, and the optimism of a rapidly modernizing world. Jewelers embraced new cutting techniques and materials, creating fanciful pieces with sharp angles, stepped forms, and dramatic contrasts between light and dark gemstones
You can identify if a piece is from the period by examining it for these key features:
Geometric forms
Art Deco jewelry is renowned for its geometry and commonly features clean lines and angular shapes such as zig zags or chevrons, sunbursts, and hexagons. Stepped patterns are also found on bracelets from the era, and were directly inspired by the newly erected skyscrapers of the 1920s. Unlike Art Nouveau jewelry which is famous for sinuous, organic forms and naturalist motifs, Art Deco jewelry has a much more modern industrial geometric vibe. 
From the Beladora archives: Lacloche Freres Art Deco Diamond Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1925
Bold color contrasts
While diamond line bracelets of all shapes and designs are commonly associated with the art deco period, Art Deco bracelets often feature contrasting colored gemstones. Onyx and diamonds are a classic combination that defines the era's air of sophistication, while highly saturated rubies and emeralds are also often found paired together, reflecting the bold and playful nature of the period. Coral and black onyx are another popular Art Deco bracelet color combination, highlighting the era's fascination with all things Egyptian, triggered by the 1922 discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb.
Symmetry and balance
The design of an Art Deco bracelet can generally be described as orderly opulence, as symmetry is integral to its overall composition. Edges are precise rather than curved or organic to create a deliberate, architectural feel. Patterns are often repeated and bracelets have architectural symmetry versus a more naturalistic flow. 
From the Beladora archives: Exquisite Art Deco Diamond Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1930
Enamel and semi-precious stone accents
A common technique in the Art Deco era was the use of colored enamel and semi-precious stones as accents which gave these pieces a graphic look. Onyx, jade and coral are three of the most popular choices of accent stone used in design. These materials were favored for their striking, dramatic appearance and ability to contrast with platinum and diamonds.
Milgrain detailing
If you look closely, you'll often see tiny beads around the gemstones of Art Deco jewelry. This is known as milgrain and comes from the French word mille-grain, meaning 'a thousand grains'. This intricate feature was often used to outline settings and add texture and sparkle to a piece. It can most commonly be found on platinum work.
From the Beladora archives: Boucheron Diamond Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1930
Materials, Metals, and Gemstones
Art Deco jewelry designers used a wide range of materials when creating bracelets, but certain metals and gemstones truly define the era:
Metals
Platinum
Platinum was the dominant metal of the period and enabled jewelers to achieve a sophisticated monochromatic look that designers of art deco diamond line bracelets especially embraced. It felt inherently modern in comparison to yellow gold and its strength made it possible to create intricate features, secure and oftentimes invisible gemstone settings, and more interesting geometric shapes than had been popular in earlier design periods.
Gemstones
Diamonds
The Art Deco era is defined by diamonds, typically cut more symmetrically than earlier old mine cut diamonds, but still less precise than modern stones. Cutting machinery improved in the 1940s and ‘50s which meant a wide variety of marquise, square step-cut, transitional cut, oval, baguette, half-moon shape and calibre-cut diamonds could be used to create chic and elaborate geometric designs. Oftentimes, one large fancy cut diamond is featured at the center of a bracelet while varieties of smaller diamonds or colored gemstones surround it.
Rubies
Colored gemstones such as rubies were very popular during the Art Deco period thanks to their vibrancy and intensity. They were often used to contrast effectively with diamonds.
Emeralds
Colored stones such as emeralds were also favored in the Art Deco period. Cartier was renowned for its use of emeralds during this period and created many iconic pieces that together with rubies, sapphires, diamonds, black onyx and coral would later be referred to as the 'Tutti Frutti' designs.
From the Beladora Archives: Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1930
Sapphire
Sapphire was another popular gemstone choice during the Art Deco period, as its brilliant blue color enhanced the cool tones of platinum and diamonds. When combined with carved rubies, emeralds, diamonds and black onyx in vine-shaped patterns these exotic, Indian- inspired bracelets would later be referred to as the 'Tutti Frutti' bracelets.
Onyx
Black stones were traditionally used during the Victorian period in mourning jewelry, but with the advent of platinum in the Edwardian era and continuing into the Deco period, onyx gained popularity as a symbol of sophistication and glamour. Onyx was very much favoured by important jewelry houses in the ‘20s and ‘30s, notably Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Primarily used as accent material to create drama and contrast against diamonds and other colored stones, onyx was a perfect foil and inspired choice in modern, art deco designs.
Rock Crystal
Carved clear quartz, known as rock crystal, was popularized by Cartier and others in the 1920s and ’30s. It was often frosted and frequently used in designs alongside diamonds to create a chic, icy look.
From the Beladora Archives: Cartier Art Deco Diamond and Rock Crystal Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1925
Stone cuts
Baguette Cut
Art Deco jewelry is often easily identified thanks to its striking baguette-cut gemstones. Baguettes are rectangular in shape, but can be long or short, narrow or wide, straight or tapered and nicely reflect the era's obsession with symmetry and the machine age.
Emerald Cut
Emerald cut gemstones were also enormously popular in the 1920s and 30s. Characterized by a square or more rectangular shape, having broad facets and canted corners emeralds cut. Unlike round stones, emerald cuts have very individual personalities and lend themselves to the kind of geometric designs so popular in the Art Deco period.
Step Cut
Step cut stones can be square or rectangular in shape with sharp right angle corners. Their facets are broader than traditional emerald cuts and are arranged in long straight rows that appear “stepped” like reflections in a hall of mirrors, thereby less sparkly than a traditional emerald cut. Step cut diamonds were very popular in the Art Deco period as the step-like geometric pattern is both modern and reminiscent of the architecture of the time.
From the Beladora Archives: Art Deco Step Cut Diamond Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1930
Old European Cut
A precursor to today's modern round brilliant cut, the Old European cut is a slightly asymmetrical round shape often used in the 1920s. Improved faceting technique enhanced a diamond's sparkle over the earlier lumpier, old mine cut but it is less perfectly round than diamonds cut by the lasers of today. Old European cuts are most commonly found in vintage and antique pieces and are extremely desirable for their individuality, personality and relative rarity.
Calibre Cut
Small, very precisely cut, fancy shaped diamonds or colored stones in square, rectangular or tapered shapes, often set tightly side by side to create an illusion of no metal mounting or to accent or surround other larger stones. Calibre cuts were used abundantly in the 1920s and ‘30s and enabled highly expert jewelers to create the intricate geometric designs of the Art Deco era. These settings required great technical expertise and allowed for great swaths of color from grooved, calibre-cut stones that seem to float on air, such as the famous Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery settings of the 1930’s and beyond.
Art Deco Diamond and Emerald Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1920
Art Deco vs Art Nouveau: What's the Difference?
Many people confuse the Art Deco and Art Nouveau periods, but there are key differences that set the styles of these eras apart.
Art Nouveau (roughly 1890 - 1910)
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Inspired by nature and the human form
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Features flowing lines and organic curves
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Uses floral and figural motifs
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Soft, asymmetrical compositions
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Favored 18K yellow gold, enamel, and semi-precious stones
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Feminine, romantic, sinuous
Tiffany & Co. Art Nouveau Moonstone and Sapphire Bracelet in Platinum, by Louis Comfort Tiffany
Art Deco (roughly 1920 - 1939)
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Inspired by architecture and machinery
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Features sharp angles and geometric shapes
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Uses chevron motifs
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Striking symmetrical compositions
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Favored platinum, diamonds, and high-contrast colored stones
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Graphic, precise, confident
Collectors sometimes confuse these two styles, as they are both highly decorative and can overlap in time period, but Art Deco designs can easily be identified by the modern use of platinum, geometric shapes, and symmetrical lines.
Types of Art Deco Bracelets
There were several different types of bracelets that were popular during the Art Deco movement. These included:
Diamond Line Bracelets
A sought-after style of the era, diamond line bracelets consisted of a single strip of diamonds, often worn stacked with two or three others and were effortlessly elegant and wearable. Today, they are more commonly known as tennis bracelets, but the original Art Deco styles are some of the most coveted.
Link Bracelets
As the name suggests, Art Deco link bracelets feature geometric-shaped links. They were most often produced in platinum and adorned with contrasting diamonds and colored gemstones.
From the Beladora archives: Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Bracelet in Platinum
Bangle Bracelets
Bangles were a popular bracelet style in the 1920s and 30s and were often worn stacked to create a fashionable and modern effect. They were most frequently engraved or enameled with geometric gemstones and architectural shapes.
Flexible Bracelets
Lavish parties and dancing were a big part of the Jazz Age, and as a result, jewelry needed to be able to stand out on, but also survive, the dance floor. Flexible bracelets composed of closely set stones in a uniform or tapering width became popular during the period because they moved with the wearer.
From the Beladora archives: Boucheron Diamond Bracelet in Platinum, c. 1930
Cuff Bracelets
Wide, statement pieces like cuff bracelets were a refreshing change from delicate Art Nouveau styles in the 1920s. They became popular thanks to their bold motifs and ultra-modern feel.
How Much Do Art Deco Bracelets Cost?
Art Deco bracelets can range significantly in price from several thousand to several million dollars, depending on the craftsmanship, stone quality, provenance, and condition of a piece. Signed designer bracelets from the period can command significant premiums, with designs by Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels being some of the most highly desirable. Rarity and originality contribute to the desirability.
Why Are Art Deco Bracelets So Popular Today?
Art Deco's enduring appeal lies in its unparalleled craftsmanship, difficult to replicate today. Its geometric designs and sparkling diamonds have maintained an air of modernity for over 100 years. Despite being antique, jewelry from the 1920s is easy to wear with contemporary outfits. An Art Deco line bracelet looks just as chic worn with jeans and a white tee as it does with a sequined party dress.
There is also something inherently special about owning an antique design. When you wear an Art Deco bracelet, you wear a one of a kind piece of history, and you can't help but imagine the magical occasions and glamorous women who may have worn it before you.
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How to Care for an Art Deco Bracelet
Whether you own a family heirloom or are about to purchase your first piece, Art Deco bracelets require careful maintenance to keep their value. Remember:
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Always clean your jewelry gently with a soft brush and a very mild soap.
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Avoid ultrasonic cleaners; these can loosen old settings and damage enamel.
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Wrap your jewelry pieces individually and store securely to prevent scratches.
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Take your pieces for professional check-ups from time to time to inspect the prongs and setting integrity.
