The Bulgari Serpenti collection is an iconic jewelry and watch line inspired by ancient snake mythology, and for over 85 years it has been one of the Italian jewelry house's signature styles. The Serpenti bracelet watch is the most well-known style from the range, but the line also includes necklaces, rings, earrings, and watches.
The History of the Bulgari Serpenti
The Serpenti bracelet watch first launched in 1948 and immediately turned heads due to the unique tubogas technique used on the watch strap. Originally inspired by industrial gas pipe design, the technique allowed for a flexible coiled gold strap that wrapped around the wrist similarly to how a snake's body winds around an object. Wartime conditions pushed Bulgari away from platinum and toward 18k yellow gold, which became the defining material of the brand's aesthetic and the Serpenti's classic look.
Since the '40s, the Serpenti has evolved and been adopted across many areas of Bulgari's designs. In the 1950s, naturalistic snake head watches with gemstone eyes and the first hidden dials were popular, while in the 1960s, 'secret watches' with enamel snake scales and a dial concealed behind a hinged head were all the rage. In the 1970s there was a huge revival of the Tubogas technique and the introduction of two-tone steel and gold Serpenti pieces.
In the early 2000s, Bulgari celebrated its 125th anniversary with a new geometric form of Serpenti complete with a triangular head and sculptural scales, and in 2010, a new Tubogas interpretation fused the snake bracelet and case into a single integrated form. In 2017, the house launched the Twist Your Time collection, which introduced leather-strap Serpenti watches for the first time.
The consistent success of the Serpenti designs led Bulgari to be acquired by LVMH in 2011. The company continues to operate in Rome to this day, with Serpenti remaining its most popular collection.
The Serpent as a Symbol: Why a Snake?
Snake symbolism has been popular since the times of ancient Egypt, when serpents represented rebirth, protection, power, and seduction. The ouroboros (a snake eating its tail) was seen as a symbol of eternity and represented the cycle of life.
In 1839, Prince Albert's emerald-headed serpent engagement ring to Queen Victoria cemented the snake motif in fine jewelry and triggered a Victorian-era snake jewelry boom that never really ended.
When Bulgari's Serpenti designs emerged in the '40s, people were immediately drawn to the snake motif and the connotations of feminine seduction and power it conjured. This symbolism has given the collection lasting appeal.
Why The Serpenti Became an Icon
Actress Elizabeth Taylor frequently visited Bulgari's Via Condotti boutique while she was filming Cleopatra in Rome in 1962, so much so that her co-star Richard Burton joked, 'The only Italian word Elizabeth Taylor knows is Bulgari.' When the film star was photographed on set wearing a diamond-set Serpenti watch, she hit the headlines as the press tried to guess who the jewelry was a gift from, and the allure of the Serpenti was reignited for shoppers around the world.
Actresses have always been drawn to the Serpenti, from Sophia Lauren and Audrey Hepburn to modern-day movie stars such as Zendaya, Anne Hathaway, and Priyanka Chopra Jonas, all of whom are current Bulgari brand ambassadors. The striking snake motif is perfect for turning heads on the red carpet, so it's no surprise that Anna Hathaway chose a high jewelry Serpenti necklace and earrings for the 2024 SAG Awards, while Zendaya wore a Serpenti high jewelry necklace featuring a roughly 94-carat emerald to the Dune: Part One premiere in 2021.
The Serpenti has endured for over seven decades because its evocative symbolism is timelessly appealing. Just like a snake, the Serpenti sheds its skin repeatedly every decade, but each new version of the design feels current without abandoning the spirit of the original.
Serpenti: Materials, Stones, and Craftsmanship
Metals
Most vintage Serpenti pieces are made from 18K yellow gold, while contemporary styles are also found in white and rose gold. There is an entry level Serpenti steel watch line but most Bulgari Serpenti bracelets and bracelet watches in gold are in 18k gold.
Gemstones
Serpenti snakes feature enamel eyes, ruby eyes and even diamond eyes. Emeralds, malachite, onyx and turquoise may all be found within the scales of the snake, and the particular material used usually indicates which decade the piece was made.
Techniques
Three techniques define the Serpenti. The first is Tubogas, the interlocking gold coils that give the watch straps their flexible snake-like nature. This technique is so difficult to master, it took Bulgari goldsmiths 15 years after the design's 1948 debut to perfect, meaning no two pieces from those early years are the same. The second is enamel scaling, most commonly found on pieces from the '60s and '70s. Each Serpenti snake scale is enameled and fired individually before being assembled for an extraordinarily intricate look. The third is pavé settings. Many high jewelry Serpenti designs feature total diamond coverage.
Entry-level Serpenti styles are plain designs made from steel that are primarily jewelry pieces. High-value Serpenti designs are 18k gold and gem-set.
How To Spot a Fake Bulgari Serpenti
The Serpenti's global recognition and high secondary market value make it a frequent target for fakes. To check for authenticity, look out for the following:
Tubogas coil integrity
Authentic Bulgari Tubogas has a distinctive bounce and flex from the interlocking construction. Each coil should move independently and fluidly. Kinks, catching, or rigidity often indicate either damage or a fake.
Pavé setting quality
Authentic Bulgari pavé is exceptionally precise, with minimal visible metal between stones and continuous sparkle. Fakes show uneven spacing or protruding stones.
Gemstone eyes
Original cabochon stones like rubies or sapphires within the snake's eyes should be calibre-set, meaning custom-cut to fit the setting exactly. If you can see visible gaps or inconsistent color, there is a high chance the stones are replacements or fakes.
Clasp construction
Bulgari uses a concealed clasp that blends seamlessly into the design. A visible lobster clasp or generic toggle is a red flag.
Bulgari signature
On watch pieces, the Bulgari signature will appear on the caseback. On jewelry, it is engraved. All authentic pieces will feature correct spelling and the classic Bulgari font.
Enamel condition
On '60s and '70s pieces, original enamel in good condition is a value marker. Flaking, cloudiness, or mismatched color across scales indicates either damage or reproduction.
Beladora authenticates and guarantees every Bulgari Serpenti piece we offer so you can be 100% sure the item you are purchasing is right.
The Serpenti Product Family
Bracelets
Serpenti bracelets are some of the most recognisable and collectible of pieces. They usually feature the house's iconic Tubogas coiling and wrap around the wrist one to five times.
Watches
The Serpenti Tubogas bracelet watch is the most sought-after item from the collection. Other 'secret watches' that feature a watch dial concealed within a snake head are also popular with collectors.
Necklaces
Serpenti necklaces range from simple chain and pendant styles to elaborately coiled high jewelry creations covered in diamonds. The 2000s and 2010s saw a huge increase in Serpenti necklace designs.
Rings
The Serpenti Viper ring is a highly sought-after style. Featuring a coiling snake design that wraps around the finger, it is available in yellow, white, and rose gold with cabochon or more expensive pavé stone options.
Earrings
Serpenti earrings include stud and drop designs, both featuring the snake head. Viper stud earrings are an entry-level product in this category, with more expensive designs including pavé diamonds or cabochon gemstones.
How Much Does a Bulgari Serpenti Cost?
The price of Bulgari Serpenti pieces varies considerably depending on the product type, materials, and stones used.
Pre-owned
Pre-loved Bulgari Serpenti pieces are typically less expensive than buying new, with varied price points available across all categories.
Does Bulgari Serpenti Hold Its Value?
Generally, Bulgari Serpenti pieces hold value very well. The Tubogas bracelet watch in 18-karat gold is the most collectible Serpenti piece and holds its value the best; however, condition and relevant documentation always affects the final selling price. Exceptional gem-set and enamel examples of vintage Serpenti designs can exceed $100,000 at resale.
Early iterations before the Tubogas technique was solidified are also sought after, as no two versions are the same. Pieces with good quality original enamel, intact watch movements, and a confirmed Bulgari signature can also command premium prices. The Serpenti line is easy to be worn in layers, with buyers often wanting matching or co-ordinating pieces; this sustained demand works in the resale market's favor.
Selling Your Bulgari Serpenti
Beladora is the perfect place to sell your Bulgari Serpenti pieces. Our GIA-certified gemologists have expert knowledge of Bulgari and the Serpenti line specifically, and can authenticate jewelry and watches for you.
During an appointment with our expert, we use our specialist knowledge to evaluate your piece. Once we have confirmed authenticity, we give you an immediate offer, but with no pressure to sell.
Book an appointment today to see how much your vintage Bulgari Serpenti might be worth.
Shop Vintage Bulgari Serpenti at Beladora
Has this article inspired you to add a piece of Serpenti jewelry to your collection? Browse our pre-owned vintage Bulgari pieces today and shop safely knowing that our 40 years of experience ensures you will find the best pieces at the best possible prices.
