Our definitive guide to jewelry pieces from the Art Deco period.
What Is Art Deco Jewelry?
Art Deco jewelry refers to pieces created between 1920 and 1939 that are defined by angular shapes, bold color combinations, and the spirit of post-World War I modernism.
While the term Art Deco itself comes from a 1925 Parisian arts and textiles exposition called the International Exposition des Arts Decoratifs, which displayed modern artwork from around the world, the movement was really a culmination of several artistic developments that had taken place beginning at the turn of the century, over two decades earlier.
Art Deco jewelry was favored by the silver screen goddesses of the 1930s, like Jean Harlow, and was seen as the ultimate symbol of Hollywood glamor. Today, it remains just as sought after and is highly collectible due to its unrivalled craftsmanship, incredible wearability, and timeless beauty.
The History of Art Deco Jewelry
As women gained more freedoms post-World War I, they embraced low-waisted flapper dresses that were easy to move in and accentuated their bare neck and arms. New jewelry styles were created to complement these fashions, and designs that moved freely, such as dangle earrings and long pearl necklaces, became popular. A newfound sense of modern glamour shaped everything from the ocean liners, to the sports cars and airplanes made during this time, and jewelry was no exception.
Art Deco jewelers took inspiration from the colorful 1910s Ballet Russes costumes designed by Léon Bakst and incorporated dramatically dazzling rubies, emeralds, and jade into their designs as a result. They were also inspired by the 1922 discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb, and designers favored gemstones, including lapis lazuli, onyx, and carnelian, which were found in the tomb. Moving away from the organic forms of Art Nouveau and closer to the clean lines of Cubism, geometric shapes and colorful gemstones greatly appealed to designers of the time and came to define the era's jewelry.
What Defines Art Deco Jewelry?
Art Deco jewelry can be identified by its superb craftsmanship, sophisticated geometry, clean lines, and use of striking, colorful gemstones.
Geometric forms and symmetry
Angular shapes such as triangles, hexagons, and octagons are common within Art Deco jewelry and reflect the era's strict symmetrical style. Zig-zag and chevron patterns were an homage to the new industrial age that began in the 1920s. Many Art Deco jewelry designs took further inspiration directly from the newly erected skyscraper buildings of the time.
High-contrast color combinations
In response to the soft tones of the Art Nouveau period, Art Deco jewelry is defined by a dramatic contrast of color achieved through the coupling of precious and semi-precious stones. White diamonds and onyx were frequently paired together as were rubies and emeralds with platinum.
Platinum and white metals
Platinum was the dominant metal of the Art Deco age, as it was highly valued for its clean finish, its ability to hold intricate geometric settings, and its modern look. During the Great Depression of the 1930s, white gold emerged as a more affordable Art Deco alternative. As World War II approached, platinum was restricted for military use, and white, yellow, and rose gold became more exclusively utilized. This, alongside changing tastes for more sculptural shapes, ushered in the next age of design known as Retro.
Distinctive gemstones cuts
Emerald cut
One of the most popular cuts of the period, Art Deco designers favored the emerald cut due to its clean, rectangular lines. It is most commonly found in diamonds and emeralds and is characterized by broad facets and canted corners.
Baguette cut
Baguette-cut stones are narrow and rectangular, making them the perfect choice for intricate geometric designs. Art Deco designers often used them as accent stones in symmetrical pieces, as they have a modern, machine-age-like look.
Asscher cut
Also known as step cut, this cut uses sharp right angles to create a geometric 'hall of mirrors' optical illusion within a stone. Repeated symmetrical patterns were highly appealing during the Art Deco, and this cut was often favored for diamonds.
Old European cut
Almost exclusively found on vintage and antique pieces, the Old European cut is a precursor to today's round brilliant cut. During the Art Deco period, it was desired for its symmetrical appearance and bright sparkle.
Calibre cut
Calibre cut gemstones are small, square, rectangular, or angled-shaped stones that were frequently used to create some of the most intricate designs of the Art Deco period. They often accented a larger stone, or were set tightly side by side to give the illusion of no metal mounting.
Exotic cultural influences
The Art Deco movement was influenced by many global styles, from the carved gemstones of India, which led to Cartier's Tutti Frutti collection, and the scarab and falcon motifs of ancient Egypt, which inspired several Van Cleef & Arpels pieces from the '20s.
The Great Art Deco Designers
Cartier
Cartier created some of the most iconic and defining styles of the Art Deco period. These include the rectangular Tank watch, which was inspired by the army vehicles of World War I, and the Tutti Frutti collection, which combined carved rubies, sapphires, and emeralds with diamonds and black onyx accents in bold floral and foliate settings.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels developed the Mystery Set™ technique during the Art Deco period to allow gemstones to be set with no visible metal between them. This painstaking process can take up to eight hours per stone and is still used in fine jewelry today.
Bulgari
Bulgari adopted the elegance of platinum during the Art Deco era and created many geometric designs involving bold color combinations that featured diamonds and emeralds.
Mauboussin
Mauboussin began experimenting with the machine aesthetic, minimalist forms, and bold gemstone combinations years ahead of its contemporaries. During the Art Deco period, the house became a favorite among celebrities, including Marlène Dietrich.
Boucheron
Boucheron was known during the Art Deco period for pieces that blended technical precision with exotic cultural influences, particularly from East Asia and India. In 1928, the house was asked by the Maharajah of Patiala to reset an entire chest of Indian gemstones from his treasury in the Art Deco style.
Tiffany & Co.
While the American jewelry house was more restrained during the Art Deco movement than many of its European counterparts, Tiffany & Co. still produced many striking geometric diamond and sapphire designs.
Types of Art Deco Jewelry: Rings, Necklaces, Bracelets, Brooches, and More
Art Deco jewelry includes earrings, rings, brooches, necklaces and bracelets with each reflecting the era's love of geometry, movement, and glamour.
Art Deco Rings
Early 1920’s revelry prompted the cocktail party scene, despite prohibition, and from it derived the cocktail ring. Bold and attention-grabbing, it became a statement piece designed to be worn at glamorous Jazz Age gatherings. Art Deco rings typically feature one geometric central stone in either an emerald, Asscher, or step cut, and often feature pavé or channel-set accent stones alongside filigree work. Art Deco rings remain popular today, thanks to their extraordinary craftsmanship, and are often used as engagement rings.
Art Deco Bracelets
Bracelet styles that were popular during the Art Deco movement included plaque, line, and link bracelets created with bold geometric and linear designs, as well as narrow bangles. Many were made in the all-white look of platinum and diamonds, or with the contrast of brightly colored gems such as rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. Art Deco bracelets were often worn on both wrists and in multiples for an ultra-glamorous look.
Art Deco Necklaces
The Flapper look changed the fashion silhouette from curvy to vertical, and as a result, shorter necklaces were replaced with long pendants. Long gem-set necklaces with tassel details, known as sautoirs, were particularly sought after as they were the perfect accompaniment to the drop-waist dresses of the day. Dramatic ropes of pearls were also popular and fueled the search for cheaper alternatives, such as the cultured pearls invented by the now iconic Kokichi Mikimoto in the 1930s.
Art Deco Brooches
Brooches replaced the belts and corsages that had been popular in earlier decades, and were often worn at the waist, at the shoulders, or used to decorate the era's famous cloche hat. Jabot pins were extremely popular during this time; these jewel-encrusted brooches often left space for the fabric of a garment to be exposed. The double clip brooch is without a doubt one of the most iconic and collectible forms of jewelry from the Art Deco period. They were worn as a large singular brooch or separated into two smaller matching symmetrical brooches.
Art Deco Earrings
During the Art Deco period, many women stopped piercing their ears, so Art Deco earrings are often screw-back. During the 1920s, earrings were often in the shape of long pendants and teardrops to complement the short bobbed hairstyles and long necklaces that were in vogue at the time. Chandelier earrings with tassels were also popular as they allowed for easy movement, essential for women attending the cocktail parties and jazz clubs of the period.
Art Deco Diamond Jewelry
During the Art Deco movement, technological advances in diamond cutting allowed diamonds to be cut into modern, three-dimensional geometric shapes such as triangles, hexagons, and octagons, and then placed in domed or stepped mounts. The emerald cut was popular for the clean lines it gave to both emeralds and diamonds, as was the contrasting of diamonds with bright stones such as rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. While bold, colored, exotic jewelry was popular in the 1920s, the note blanche or all-white look of platinum and diamonds, first created by Jean Fouquet, took center stage in the 1930s and continues to symbolize old Hollywood glamour to this day.
Shop Beladora's Art Deco Jewelry Collection
Art Deco jewelry remains in demand today due to its historical significance, technical craftsmanship, and genuine wearability. Jewelry lovers and collectors alike who are drawn to pieces from this time period will find plenty of designs that delight them in our antique collection.
