Collection: Italian Gold Rings

Italy wears the crown for the largest production of high quality gold jewelry made today. However, there is no difference in gold as a universal material used by jewelry makers the world over. Gold is gold, be it 14 karat, 18 karat or 24 karat, yellow or white, but there absolutely is a difference in the quality of the design and manufacture of pieces "Made in Italy" which typically reflect a degree of craftsmanship famed the world over for its excellence and design.

Gold is one of the noble metals found in nature and is known not only for its beauty and color, but also for its density, strength and resistance to discoloration or corrosion. These attributes have made gold an excellent material for jewelry made to last for generations.  Pure gold is actually quite soft, so it is often combined with other metals such as copper, silver, nickel and palladium to strengthen it. The amount of these alloys in gold determines its purity, be it 14K, 18K or 24K. 14K gold is hardest with the highest concentration of alloy and 24K is the softest and the purest with the least amount of added alloy.  Fine jewelry is typically made in 18K gold, yellow or white. Gold is naturally yellow in color but when alloyed with sufficient white metals such as nickel, palladium or silver and plated with rhodium, the gold becomes silvery white. 

Traditional Italian jewelry making techniques have been refined over centuries by skilled artisans using knowledge passed down from generation to generation. Specialized methods of custom fabrication, fine gem setting and the elevated use of colored stones coupled with originality in design have made jewelers such as Bulgari and Buccellati rightfully renowned and their pieces coveted for their exceptionally fine material and workmanship.

Authenticating jewelry requires nuanced expertise. Many thousands of pieces of jewelry from every era and every maker have passed through our hands for over 40 years. This familiarity enables us to know what a piece should look and feel like, if it has the expected quality of material and workmanship, if the metal and makers marks are correct and if the expected signature is authentic.

As a first step, we look at the front and back of every bracelet, ring or brooch, turning it over in our hands to see that the workmanship on the reverse is as fine as the detail on the front. Using a loupe, the jeweler’s essential tool, we look carefully at many different touch points, some of which include examining the precision with which diamonds are mounted in their settings, the manner in which gold or platinum links are connected to each other, the fineness of the material, the quality of the azuring - a difficult and refined aspect of metalwork and lastly, the flawlessness of the polish.

If we have any doubts whatsoever as to authenticity, we submit the piece to the relevant firm, be it Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Verdura, David Webb and others. We also request the original bill of sale, box and papers for those items most commonly faked such as Cartier Love brackets and VCA Alhambra pieces. And just as banks know their customers, we, too, ensure we know enough about our clients to assure ourselves of their ownership and provenance.

Our team of GIA-certified jewelry experts has such a well-regarded reputation in the international jewelry industry that we are frequently called upon to advise auction houses, appraisers and other dealers in matters of authenticity and value.