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One of the most influential women in the world of
fine jewelry, Suzanne Belperron has long been considered one of the greatest
designer’s of the 20th Century. She began designing jewelry at the
famed Maison Boivin firm in 1923, working in partnership with another
prodigious female, Jeanne Boivin.
In 1933, Belperron left Boivin to enter a
partnership with a pearl dealer, Bernard Herz. Herz offered her complete
creative and artistic control of her designs and the partnership flourished in
the pre-WWII years, until Herz was interned and later killed in a concentration
camp. His son took over the Herz end of the partnership and the brand remained
intact until 1974, when Belperron retired.
Belperron is famed for her unique aesthetic and
ability to skillfully manipulate materials. She used large stones, particularly
the blue-toned sapphires and chalcedony, in three-dimensional designs. Her
genius was in the meshing of naturalistic design elements with semi-precious
materials which illuminated the precious diamonds and gemstones of her fine
jewelry pieces.
Her style was not limited to the sensuality of
voluptuously curved floral and foliate designs, she was also a leading luminary
in the world of avant-garde jewelry design. Strong, architectural motifs with
linear qualities crafted in semi-precious materials were a reflection of her
distinctive personality. Belperron’s fine jewelry creations are as unique and
unforgettable as the woman herself was.
Despite having achieved popularity with her elite
clientele, including the world-famous Duchess of Windsor, Belperron was not
prolific in producing her elegant items. Collectors of fine estate jewelry have
become avid in the acquisition of her pieces as they are incredibly rare to find.
Indeed, Belperron’s jewelry stands as testament to the unique design aesthetics
of the early and mid-20th Century, and the ability of one highly
talented woman to buck convention and create divine pieces of jewelry which are
as phenomenal today as they were when created. |
