Edwardian Elegance

Edwardian Elegance

Though King Edward VII, after whom this period of jewelry history is named, reigned over England for only nine years, the style of jewelry known as “Edwardian” was created roughly between 1890 and 1920. The Edwardian period is also known as the “Belle Epoch,” named for the decadent lifestyle of Edward and Queen Alexandra, which helped establish an international high society for which fine jewelry was a requisite part of the dress code. Everything in the highest stratum of society was centered on extreme lavishness and the pursuit of pleasure. Though the style of Edwardian jewelry is credited to the English royal couple, the French influenced the jewelry designs of the period as well.

In contrast to other concurrent styles of jewelry design such as Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau, Edwardian jewelry’s design was very traditional. The Edwardian period is often overlooked as it coincided with the more famous periods of Art Nouveau and early Art Deco. While many artists were solely focused on these styles, many of the larger jewelry firms such as Tiffany & Co. and Cartier worked to improve diamond cutting and setting technology in order to further innovate the look of the fine jewelry that was in high demand among the upper echelons of European society. While the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts movements valued design and craftsmanship over the value of materials used in the jewelry, Edwardian jewelry continued to place heavy emphasis on the materials used; pearls, diamonds, platinum, and other precious materials were frequently used in monochromatic or white color schemes.

Intricate design is a hallmark of Edwardian jewelry, which is often distinguished from other pieces based on its delicate and lace-like appearance, enabled through the use of platinum with invisible settings. Also popular was the millegrained setting. The strength of platinum enabled strikingly detailed creations, and platinum was readily worked into scalloped edges, giving the jewelry the appearance of lace. While the Edwardian period had its roots in the late Victorian period, the diamonds and other materials used in Edwardian jewelry were set and cut to look delicate and ethereal in contrast to earlier diamonds. Edwardian jewelry was thus designed to complement the white silk and lace being worn by affluent Edwardian ladies. In addition to diamonds and pearls, stones such as amethysts, peridots (favorites of the royal couple), blue sapphires, garnets, alexandrites, rubies and turquoise are often found in Edwardian jewelry. Also used were black Australian opals and aquamarines. During World War I, when platinum was not available for use in jewelry, white gold was commonly used.

King Edward was passionate about horse racing, and horseshoes became a popular motif in Edwardian jewelry. Other popular motifs were clovers, stars, hearts, bows and shamrocks. A trend toward good-luck charms and genteel designs gave the fashions a positive feel. 

Diamonds were primarily used in Edwardian jewelry, and were the most popular gemstone of the period. This encouraged the development of new techniques in diamond-cutting, giving rise to new cuts such as the marquise, emerald and baguette in. The briolette cut was often used in diamond earrings and lavalier necklaces.

Edwardian diamond jewelry is much more understated and elegant than the jewelry from other periods. The use of invisible settings strengthened by platinum gave the diamonds a brighter appearance and allowed for more intricate designs with floral and foliate motifs. The exquisite pieces produced during the timecontinue to exude elegance even today, and a piece of Edwardian diamond jewelry is a great choice for a timelessly regal addition to your jewelry collection.

Edwardian Necklaces

Sautoirs are unique to the Edwardian period. The term refers to a long necklace that ends with a tassel or a pendant. The necklace portion of Edwardian sautoirs is often made from pearls or platinum, while the tassels usually are made from pearls.

Also popular during this period was the Edwardian garland necklace, which Cartier is credited as having first created, referring to neo-classical and Roccoco-styled designs with delicate floral, foliate and lace patterns made from diamonds and platinum. Also unique to the Edwardian period was the négligeé pendant necklace, usually consisting of two pendant drops of unequal length attached to a stone or to draping pieces of fine chain.

Edwardian Rings

Edwardian rings were often made from platinum or white gold with diamonds set in an oblong formation, and feature Old European Cut or Old Mine Cut diamonds. The metal was often filigree detailed. Popular during this time was the “invisible setting,” which involved very little metal being used to hold a gemstone or diamond in place. This setting was achieved by the use of platinum, which is stronger than gold. Diamonds and pearls were favored in Edwardian rings to give an all-white look that matched the pale clothing in fashion at the time. Amethysts, a violet stone that was the favorite of Queen Alexandra, were also often included in Edwardian rings.

Though not every woman could afford much of the opulent Edwardian jewelry being produced at the time, many women invested in elegant Edwardian rings. Considered by many to be some of the most gorgeous diamond jewelry every produced, Edwardian diamond rings and other diamond jewelry were favored by the royals and international elite of the turn-of-the -century, and as such are truly stunning pieces.  

Edwardian Brooches

Another fashionable embellishment during the Edwardian era was the bar brooch. The style featured an elongated design set with with moonstones, opals or amethysts flanked by a row of diamonds or pearls on each side. Delicate brooches with reversed carved or painted crystal pictures of animals and landscapes had a similar presence on the romantic clothing of the age.

The bow shape, which was immensely popular during the Victorian area, is also often found in Edwardian brooches and other Edwardian jewelry. The Edwardian version was produced in a honeycomb mesh pattern made from platinum, thus matching the lacey, delicate clothing worn by Edwardian women. Circular brooches with lacy filigree designs were also popular, as were designs featuring half-moons and stars.

Edwardian jewelry was crafted to look like lace and there is strong accord amongst jewelry experts that the time period produced some of the most elegant and superbly crafted pieces ever created. It’s beauty transcends fads and trends, and is as gorgeous now as it was a century ago. It can be worn in countless ways: add glint to a little black dress; turn an ordinary updo into something truly stunning; use it on your evening wrap, wear it as a pendant, the possibilities are endless! Made from materials chosen for their high intrinsic value, Edwardian jewelry is always an excellent choice.

EDWARDIAN JEWELRY

The Edwardian Period, also known as the Belle Epoch, was named after the Edward VII of England, the heir of Queen Victoria. Queen Alexandra, the wife of King Edward VII was the quintessential Edwardian woman.  This period spanned stylistically from the time of the late Victorian Period through the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts periods until the beginning of the Art Deco Period.  Edwardian jewelry stands out for its highly intricate detailing and feminine elegance, as shown in the lace-like look of platinum and gold filigree pieces.

Portrait of Queen Alexandra in Tiara and Multiple Necklaces

The turn-of-the-century offered many spectacular innovations in jewelry design and manufacturing.  Some key factors were the the extensive use of diamonds, advancement in metalwork and the development of platinum as a workable material.  New techniques in cutting and setting diamonds were developed by important jewelers such as Tiffany and Cartier.  Other advancements included the millegrain setting which is a technique for setting stones using tiny metal grains or beads which allow for an extremely fine rim around the gemstone.  These advancements enabled jewelry designers to create particularly delicate looks that complemented the feminine fashions of the period.

Portrait of an Edwardian Lady with Pearl Choker Necklace

Jewelry designs often included scallop patterns and open work reminiscent of fine lace and embroidery favored by the Edwardian lady. Queen Alexandra was keen to wear designs which emphasized her graceful, swanlike neck and so a new focus on the neck and, especially, dog collar style necklaces became popular, typically in multistrand pearls. Later, the "negligee pendant" with two drops of unequal length hanging from a single stone or chain, as well as the "sautoir", a long necklace of pearls or chain with a tassel at the end, remained essential wardrobe pieces.  Bar brooches, stick pins, bangle bracelets and dangle earrings were commonly worn and popular motifs included bows, garlands, crescents, stars and snakes.

Portrait of Queen Mary in Collar Necklace